Pilgrimage to Sabarimala

Sabarimala is a famous pilgrim centre in Kerala in the Western Ghat mountain ranges of India. Lord Ayyappan's temple is situated here in the midst of 18 hills. The area is in the Sahya hilly regions of Kerala bordering Tamil Nadu. The temple is situated on a hilltop at an altitude of 1260 m/4135 ft. above mean sea level, and is surrounded by mountains and dense forests. Sabarimala is believed to be the place where Ayyappan meditated after killing the powerful demon, Mahishi. Sabarimala is one of the most visited pilgrim centres in the world with crores of devotees coming every year. According to Government statistics, in the year 2005, about 50 million (5 crore) devotees visted this temple.

Pilgrimage Season

Pilgrimage to Sabarimala begins on the 1st of Vrichikam ( a month in the Malayalam Calendar coming in the middle of November (between 14th to 16th) and concluding on 1st of Makara  ( a month in the Malayalam Calendar coming in the middle of January (between 14th to 16th). The most important days are Mandala Vilakku (41st day starting from 1st of Vrichikam) and Makara Vilakku (generally 1st day of Makaram). The temple is also open to the public for five days i.e. 1st to 5th of every month in the Malayalam calendar coinciding with the middle dates of English calendar months.

The Schedule of opening and closing of the temple in 2007-08 is given below:

How to reach Sabarimala

The nearest international airport is at Thiruvananthapuram (erstwhile Trivandrum), which is 175 km from Sabarimala. Another convenient international airport is at Kochi (formerly Cochin) which is about 200 km from Sabarimala. The nearest railway stations to Sabarimala are Kottayam and Chengannur (Chengannur to Pampa by road is 93 km).

One can approach the shrine using various modes of transportation via either Chalakkayam town or through the mountain trails commencing from Erumeli Township and climbing over the Karimala Mountains bare foot (close to 50 km).

The following are the important routes to Sabarimala:

1. By road from Kottayam to Pampa (via) Erumeli (136 km) and from Pampa to Sabarimala by foot (via) Neeli Mala, Appachi Medu, Sabari Peedam, Saram Kuthi & Marakkuttam- about 7 kms. Kottayam to Pampa can also be covered by road via Manimala (116 kms) and via Thiruvalla & Pathanamthitta (123 kms). If one is coming by road from Thiruvananthapuram, he can come via Kottarakkara, Adoor & Pathanamthitta to Pampa (188 kms).
2. Erumeli to Sabarimala (via) Kalaketty (11 kms), Azhutha (2½ kms), Inchippara, Karimala, Pampa (37 kms) & Sabarimala by foot (51 kms). The forest area starts from Irumbunnikkara.
3. Vandiperiyar to Mount Estate by vehicle and from there by walking to Sabarimala. The Vandiperiyar route starts at 94.4 km stone on the Kottayam - Kumili road. The Sannidhanam is about 12.8 km from here.
4. Climb down to Sabarimala from Vandiperiyar to Kozhikkanam - 15 km. Kozhikkanam to Uppupura - 10 km. Uppupura to Sabarimala - 3.5 km. (Up to Uppupura, vehicles can be used for the travel.)

Vehicular traffic cannot go beyond Pampa, situated on the Pampa river valley and the last five kilometres to the shrine can be best reached by trekking. However, porter carried chairs are also available for aged and handicapped pilgrims.

The original and most rewarding journey is from Erumeli to Sabarimala through forest by foot covering 51 kms. In Erumeli there is a famous Sastha temple built by the then King of Pandalam, Raja Sekhara Pandian. Not far from this temple is the mosque of Vavar, considered to be a close associate of Lord Ayyappa. Enroute the pilgrims cover Kalaketti. According to lore this is the place where Lord Shiva kept his Nandi (kaala in Malayalam) when he came to witness the killing of the asura princess Mahishi by Lord Ayyappa. The pilgrims then procced to Azhutha River and after the bath take a small stone to be put in Kallidam Kunnu as they proceed further. Kallidam Kunnu is considered to be place where the body of Mahishi was immersed and in memory of that the pilgrims put the stone taken from Azhutha in Kallidam Kunnu. Then they proceed to climb the Kari Mala and reach Pampa.

Devotees undertaking Sabarimala pilgrimage also cover certain famous temples en-route. Some of the most commonly visited temples are Thirunakkara Mahadeva temple in Kottayam, Katappattur temple near Meenachal,  Nilakkal Mahdeva temple, Vaikkom Shiva temple, Ettumanoor Mahadeva temple, Aaranmula Parthasarathy temple, Pandalam Valiyakoikkal Dharma Sastha temple (Thiruvabharanam (the divine ornaments) are taken from this temple to Sabarimala for the Makara Vilakku festival), Chottanikkara Bhagavathi temple, Guruvayoor Krishna temple, etc.

Vrutham (austerities) practiced for the pilgrimage

Devotees observe traditional austerities (vruthams) before their pilgrimage to sabarimala. Austerities normally starts from the first day of the Malayalam month Vrishchikam or a few days before the start of the pilgrimage. Vrithum is normally observed for 41 days.  However, those devotees who are not in a position to observe these austerities for 41 days due to official, health or other reasons observe the vrutham for lesser number of days. Devotees initiate the vrutham by wearing a Thulasi or a Rudraksha mala. This is normally done under the guidance of a Guruswamy. The Guruswamy is usually an elderly person who has undertaken pilgrimage to Sabarimala not less than eighteen times and has travelled by the traditional long route and had darshan of Makara Jothi. For those who do not know a Guruswamy could go to any nearby temple for wearing the Mala signifying the start of Vrutham. While wearing the Mala and removing the Mala after the pilgrimage the following Mantras are chanted:

After this ceremony, the male pilgrim and the female pilgrim are addressed as ayyapan and Maalikapuram respectively, till their completion of the pilgrimage.

During the period of vrutham, devotees are expected to undergo practices of simple living and absolute cleanliness. The mind and body are to be kept impeccably pure and absolute celibacy is practiced. The devotee is expected to behave in an austere and sober fashion during his vrutham. Total abstinence from non-vegetarian food and all vices like alcohol, tobacco, etc. is stipulated. Personal adornments, hair cutting, shaving, etc. are also taboo. Devotee is expected wear black/blue/saffron clothes. Devotee is expected to pray daily in the mornings and evenings after taking bath. The prayer can be performed by going to any temple or in one's own pooja room. The emphasis should be on total devotion to Lord Ayyappa than on wearing black clothes or other external items of the Vrutha. The effort should be to become a better human being, worthy of being a true devotee of Ayyappa, at the end of the vrutham. Those devotees who are desirous of worshipping Lord Ayyappa on `Makara Vilakku' day (January 14) may continue their vrutham till that day. The vrutham continues till the pilgrim returns from his pilgrimage to Sabarimala and removes his `mala' after breaking a coconut and offering prayers.

Irumudi Kettu

Pilgrims are allowed to climb the 18 steps in Sabarimala only with an Irumudi Kettu or Palli Kettu on their heads. The Irumudi Kettu is a double pouched cloth bag, the front part of the bag containing offerings to the Lord and the back part containing personal requirements.  In the good olden days the pilgrimage was through dense forests, the devotees carried items for making food etc in the back pouch of the Irumudikettu. Now a day, devotees carry coconuts, rice, etc in the back pouch. The front side contains normally the following items: Betel leaf, Betel nuts, Coins, Coconut, Neythenga (Coconut filled with pure ghee and closed with a cork), Camphor, Turmeric powder, Poha, Rice Puffs, Kalkandam (sugar crystals), raisins (dry grapes), Honey, Rose water, Kadli Pazham (Kadali plantain fruit), Unakkallari (dry Rice), Tobacco and Pepper.

The Neythenga is for neyyabhishekam for Lord Ayyappa, which is the most important vazhivadu (offering). For this the devotee has to book the ticket from the temple counter, take out the ghee by breaking the coconut and pour it into a vessel (stones for the purpose are available in the temple) and give it for abhishekam. After the abhisekam, the ghee is returned to the devotee s prasadam.  Neyyabhishekam can be conducted from 4.15 a.m. in the morning to 11.30 a.m. The turmeric powder is an offering for Malikapurathamma, Naga Yakshi and Naga Raja. Poha, Rice Puffs, Kalkandam (sugar crystals), raisins (dry grapes) is for Kadutha Swami, Tobacco for Karuppu Swami and Pepper for Vavar.